Serbia’s only candidate for the seven natural wonders of the world mysteriously unites harsh and tame environments, truth and fiction, legends and nature’s response, with its two rare phenomena
Let us take you to the south of Serbia, to the mystical Toplica region known for its natural wonders, legends and numerous springs of healing water, to the cradle of metallurgy and the birthplace of great heroes such as Toplica Milan and Kosančić Ivan – the famous Dragon of Radan.
Đavolja Varoš consists of two natural phenomena that are rare in the world: earthen figures, as specific forms of relief, and two springs of water, with high mineral content. The attractiveness of these phenomena is complemented by their natural environment, which seems mystical around the earthen figures, but vivid and tame in the wider surroundings, as well as the remains of settlements, old churches, cemeteries and several interesting mining pits.
Đavolja Varoš was the best-placed European candidate in its category, as one of 77 candidates for the seven natural wonders of the world, and it is even more significant that it was in the race until the last vote, which ended in the summer of 2010
Whether these figures are petrified wedding guests who wanted to conclude a marriage between a young man and his sister by urge of the devil, or people who were petrified by a witch because of unfulfilled promises, the tall earthen cone-shaped formations on Mount Radan in the south of Serbia will surely not leave you indifferent.
Earthen figures
The locality with the specific name “Đavolja Varoš ” belongs to the village, also strangely named Đake (from the Albanian word “gjak” – blood), which is located in the territory of the Municipality of Kuršumlija. Earthen figures or – as the locals call them – “towers” are located in two ravines divided by a narrow watershed, the source parts of which merge into a single erosive crest, greatly destroyed by erosive processes. The ravines also have strange names: one is “Đavolja jaruga” (Devil’s Ravine) and the other is “Paklena jaruga” (Hell’s Ravine).
The site consists of 202 figures of different shapes and dimensions, from 2 to 15 meters high and 0.5 to 3 meters wide, with stone caps on top, created by erosion. This process has been going on for centuries – the towers are formed, they grow, change, shorten, disappear and re-create. The earthen columns are created from three layers of different composition: in the base is a layer of marl up to 1 meter in thickness, in the middle there is yellowish clay up to 3 meters thick, and above it is the thickest layer of sandstone, covered with andesite slabs, which protect the loose base from destruction. These specific forms of relief were formed by the action of rainwater on the former topographical surface.
The resulting earthen formations are shaped by climatic factors such as wind, sun rays or temperature changes into earthen figures of strange shape and appearance. They seem unreal when observed for a longer time, both in terms of shape and size and incredible static stability. It is truly incredible that a figure that is three meters wide in the base and ten or more meters high, ends up with a thickness of 20-30 cm at the top and remains like that for decades and centuries under the weight of a stone slab weighing up to one hundred kilograms…
A special event for visitors is the night tour, with the blend of mysticism of the figures, light effects, music and legend
This geomorphological phenomenon is unique in Serbia and very rare in the world. In Europe, there are similar formations in the Alps, while in America there is “Garden of the Gods”. However, in Đavolja Varoš the towers are more numerous, larger in size and significantly more durable.
Đavolja voda (Devil’s Water)
In Đavolja Varoš there are two acidic water springs, Đavolja voda (Devil’s water) and Crveno vrelo (Red spring). Đavolja voda is a cold and extremely acidic spring (1.5 pH) and flows through Đavolja jaruga, while the Crveno vrelo spring, located closer to the entrance to the protected zone, is less acidic and with lower mineralization. Due to the flat terrain, its water spills in a very thin layer and flows into the bed of the nearby Žuti potok (Yellow creek). Due to oxidation of iron, which the water contains in large quantities, a red fan-shaped terrace is created, which looks extremely attractive.
These types of water are very rare in the world, so due to their qualities and exceptional healing properties, they are used for spa treatment purposes. The water has not been tested enough to be used for drinking.
Legends
The strangely sculpted and strangely arranged earthen figures, the wilderness of the erosive headland, the water with a strange taste and smell, the mysticism and mystery created by the sound effects when the wind blows, have for centuries provoked imagination of the local population, who explained these phenomena by numerous legends. One of the most prevalent, related to the creation of the fascinating towers, tells the story of petrified wedding guests.
Once upon a time, on the slopes of Mount Radan, there lived modest, peaceful inhabitants devoted to their faith. This bothered the devil, so he prepared “devil’s water” for them to forget about family relationships. After drinking that water, the stunned villagers decided to conclude marriage between siblings, a young man and his sister.
A fairy tried to prevent the devil’s plan, and it is believed to this day that she keeps this area under her protection. But the fairy failed to reason with the wedding party, and they set off with the young couple towards the church for the wedding. She then began to pray to God to somehow prevent the desecration of the family. God answered her prayer, joined the sky with the earth, then blew a strong, cold wind and petrified the wedding guests and the young couple.
According to another legend, the figures represent petrified devils that people had carried on their backs for a long time, suffering evil and troubles. Spending the night next to the Church of Sveta Petka, they managed to get rid of their demons, who remained petrified nearby.
Sveta Petka helps the sick and the needy who visit this place, hence the belief that a sore spot should be touched by a handkerchief while making a wish, and then the handkerchief should be tied to a pole, so that all troubles and problems (demons) would remain in Đavolja Varoš along with the handkerchief. The handkerchiefs remain in this place for seven days, and then they are buried and the torment remains in the ground forever.
The compass says Đavolja Varoš
The earthen figures, as the most pronounced geomorphological phenomenon of this kind in Europe, present an extraordinary tourist attraction that year after year attracts an increasing number of tourists of all categories, scientific workers and nature enthusiasts. The tourist complex in which Đavolja Varoš is located includes two spas: Prolom Banja and Lukovska Banja. The Lazarica church and the Pločnik archaeological site are also located in the area. A path can be followed through the entire complex, and for the most part it is not demanding, but extra caution is needed when walking over wet stones.
The locality “Đavolja Varoš” was placed under state protection as early as 1959, and in 1995 it was declared a natural asset of exceptional importance by the Decree of the Government of the Republic of Serbia and placed in the first category of protection – NATURAL MONUMENT
Allow a little more than an hour for the walk in order to cover everything. Make sure not to miss the works of artists from numerous art colonies, who were inspired by the legends of Đavolja Varoš, then visit the mine pits from the 13th century and learn about the mining skills of the Saxons, take a walk to the mineral water springs and visit the most fascinating viewpoints from which you can see the unique view of the stone figures. The Church of Sveta Petka from the 13th century will provide you with refuge, and the ethnic tavern with local food and wine will be a great place to end this unique excursion.
